Words are insufficient. This is all you need to know.
Tuol Sleng genocide museum
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Perspectives on Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh is a city more of the past than the future. Opening up slowly to the world, it's attracted those who gravitate toward poverty - NGOs, charities, paedophiles and backpackers - but is also taking steps to modernise.
I can't say I liked Phnom Penh. There's something of the frontier town about it and the prostitution, homelessness, drug use and poverty is obvious. But there is also beauty. If you look for it.
Photos: Phnom Penh from my hotel room
Photo: Streets of Phnom Penh
Photos: Phnom Penh esplanade
Monday, February 20, 2012
Happy Room
Of all the euphemisms for a toilet in the world, the Vietnamese 'happy room' has to be my favourite.
While in Vietnam, you can hear frequent cries of "there's the happy room", "please go to the happy room before we leave" and, my personal favourite when stopping at a petrol station to use the squat toilet:
"That is not a very happy room."
While in Vietnam, you can hear frequent cries of "there's the happy room", "please go to the happy room before we leave" and, my personal favourite when stopping at a petrol station to use the squat toilet:
"That is not a very happy room."
Little Red Dave goes to Phnom Penh
Another early morning as we set off for the Cambodian border via the Cu Chi tunnels. These tunnels were used by the Viet Cong to hide and move around secretly while fighting the US. They're extensive, narrow, dark and conditions inside them were difficult.
On the one hand, the tunnel complex is an interesting insight into guerilla tactics during the Vietnam War. The local people were suffering terrible bombing and deforestation campaigns by the US and were defending themselves, their families and their homes.
One the other hand, the tunnel complex is a militaristic celebration of violence and war (the word 'atrocity' apparently only applies to something the other guy does) and it left quite a bad taste in my mouth.
Overall, I was quite disappointed.
After we left the tunnels, we continued our bus trip to Bavet where we walked across the border; a quick and easy affair (at least for us). Now, I'm not suggesting that Jay bribed them. Let's just say that: at least at the Laos border they gave us a receipt.
We reached Phnom Penh in the late afternoon, dumped our bags at our hotel, grabbed a few drinks at the FCC rooftop bar and then had a fantastic meal of local curry, Amok, frog stirfry and Australian wine. When all around you fails and nothing makes sense anymore, you'll always know that Australian wine will be there for you.
Photo: Jo in the entrance to one of the Cu Chi tunnels
Photo: Edith inside the Cu Chi tunnels
Photo: Paul in the Cu Chi tunnels
On the one hand, the tunnel complex is an interesting insight into guerilla tactics during the Vietnam War. The local people were suffering terrible bombing and deforestation campaigns by the US and were defending themselves, their families and their homes.
One the other hand, the tunnel complex is a militaristic celebration of violence and war (the word 'atrocity' apparently only applies to something the other guy does) and it left quite a bad taste in my mouth.
Overall, I was quite disappointed.
After we left the tunnels, we continued our bus trip to Bavet where we walked across the border; a quick and easy affair (at least for us). Now, I'm not suggesting that Jay bribed them. Let's just say that: at least at the Laos border they gave us a receipt.
We reached Phnom Penh in the late afternoon, dumped our bags at our hotel, grabbed a few drinks at the FCC rooftop bar and then had a fantastic meal of local curry, Amok, frog stirfry and Australian wine. When all around you fails and nothing makes sense anymore, you'll always know that Australian wine will be there for you.
Photo: Sunset in Phnom Penh from the FCC (bad boys club) rooftop bar
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Beer Travesty
After our day on the delta, Edith and I weren't up for a big meal and Jo was sleeping off her suntan. So Edith, Jay and I went to a local Pho house for, well, Pho.
It was a good traditional meal but we hit a snag... the Vietnamese serve their beer hot with a glass of ice.
Beer... with ice. Somewhere everyone of my ancestors are spinning in their graves.
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Photo: Beer... with ice. What a travesty.
Fruitful life on the Mekhong Delta
Free day today in Ho Chi Minh so Edith and I booked a day tour of the Mekhong Delta while Jo sat by the Rex's pool* and Paul and Jola went to see crocodiles and monkeys.
*We aren't staying at the Rex. She just went to use their pool.
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Photo: Edith and I on the boat with our Mekhong Delta group
The tour was largely devoted to showing us traditional life on the Delta with a particular emphasis on food. Basically, it was an eating tour and by the time we learned how to make rice paper and coconut candy, tasted jackfruit, mango, pomello, water coconut and had a huge lunch of fresh fish, rice, soup and prawns, we were well and truly catching onto the theme.
Photo: Making rice paper
Photo: Making yummy yummy coconut candy. I bought six packets.
We also got to try snake wine (which tasted like good scotch whiskey) and rice wine and had a relaxing boat ride through the Delta.
Photo: Life on the Delta
Honestly, it wasn't the best tour. I would have liked to have seen more of the Delta (we were pretty far away from the river mouth) and to find out more about the peoples' daily life. Still, it was relaxing and a bit of fun.
Saturday, February 18, 2012
Strawberry margaritas in Saigon
Danang International airport is brand spanking new and very clean. I had a hangover (as predicted) so had something suitably greasy to help before flying to hot, frantic Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) where the scooters were menacing, theft is extraordinary and I finally got the Pho I'd been hanging out for.
After lunch, we jumped straight into cyclos and had a whizzing, whirling cycle through the crazy Saigon traffic.
First stop was the harrowing War Remnants Museum dedicated to displaying in horrific photographic detail the war crimes of the US during the Vietnam War. The museum is what it is. The atrocities speak for themselves. There is, however, a tone of propaganda about the displays. I mean, it was originally known as "The House for Displaying War Crimes of American Imperialism and the Puppet Government."
No mention is ever made of the atrocities of Ho Chi Minh's regime and while Diem has the monstrous reputation he deserves no acknowledgement is made of the fact that many in the south supported him and the US (at least at first) and that thousands fled the approaching communist army - many overseas.
The highlight of the museum (if that's the right word) was the Requiem Exhibition compiled by war photographer Tim Page. An excellent series of photographs from both sides of the conflict. There is also a hugly-disturbing model of the tiger cages used to house Viet Cong. Don't go if you're squeamish.
After that hour of fun, we rejoined our cyclo drivers who pedalled us down to Notre Dame. No, really. It's a replica of Notre Dame called Notre Dame built, of course, by the French in the late 19th century.
Driving along again, we stopped by the Reunification Palace where the south, led by Diem's successor General Minh, handed power to the North on 30 April 1973.
The palace wasn't open to visitors so we just kind of looked at it from outside.
Then we motored past the gorgeous colonial opera house, the impressive City Hall and the famous Rex Hotel and then back home to quickly shower and change before a drink at the Rex's rooftop bar.
Dinner was a lovely seletion of local food at the Vietnamese kitchen and then we waved goodbye to Alex. Unfortunately, Alex has had to go home for personal reasons so this was her last night. To fare her well, we went to an Australian sports bar and drank strawberry margaritas while Aussie soaps played on the TV and we listened to ABBA.
A very authentic evening!
After lunch, we jumped straight into cyclos and had a whizzing, whirling cycle through the crazy Saigon traffic.
Photo: Saigon traffic from a cyclo
First stop was the harrowing War Remnants Museum dedicated to displaying in horrific photographic detail the war crimes of the US during the Vietnam War. The museum is what it is. The atrocities speak for themselves. There is, however, a tone of propaganda about the displays. I mean, it was originally known as "The House for Displaying War Crimes of American Imperialism and the Puppet Government."
No mention is ever made of the atrocities of Ho Chi Minh's regime and while Diem has the monstrous reputation he deserves no acknowledgement is made of the fact that many in the south supported him and the US (at least at first) and that thousands fled the approaching communist army - many overseas.
The highlight of the museum (if that's the right word) was the Requiem Exhibition compiled by war photographer Tim Page. An excellent series of photographs from both sides of the conflict. There is also a hugly-disturbing model of the tiger cages used to house Viet Cong. Don't go if you're squeamish.
After that hour of fun, we rejoined our cyclo drivers who pedalled us down to Notre Dame. No, really. It's a replica of Notre Dame called Notre Dame built, of course, by the French in the late 19th century.
Photo: Notre Dame... Saigon
Driving along again, we stopped by the Reunification Palace where the south, led by Diem's successor General Minh, handed power to the North on 30 April 1973.
Photo: Reunification Palace
The palace wasn't open to visitors so we just kind of looked at it from outside.
Then we motored past the gorgeous colonial opera house, the impressive City Hall and the famous Rex Hotel and then back home to quickly shower and change before a drink at the Rex's rooftop bar.
Dinner was a lovely seletion of local food at the Vietnamese kitchen and then we waved goodbye to Alex. Unfortunately, Alex has had to go home for personal reasons so this was her last night. To fare her well, we went to an Australian sports bar and drank strawberry margaritas while Aussie soaps played on the TV and we listened to ABBA.
A very authentic evening!
Friday, February 17, 2012
Wine Bars in the Rain
It was still raining this morning so Jo, Alex and I went to the excellent Morning Glory cooking school with Ms Vy, who's made an amazingly-successful career out of her famous restaurant serving traditional Vietnamese food.
The day began with a wet journey to the local market to learn about traditional fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, meat and fish. Then we cooked a selection of local food such as cabbage soup, rice paper rolls, Hoi An pancake and BBQ chicken with mango salad, all served with rice and, of course, my favourite vegetable - Morning Glory.
After the class, it was still raining so we ended up in the White Marble wine bar again and spent the afternoon drinking lychee martinis and excellent New Zealand wine.
The day began with a wet journey to the local market to learn about traditional fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, meat and fish. Then we cooked a selection of local food such as cabbage soup, rice paper rolls, Hoi An pancake and BBQ chicken with mango salad, all served with rice and, of course, my favourite vegetable - Morning Glory.
Photos: I made this!
Photo: Jay, Alex and me drinking cocktails in the rain
Not needing dinner after the excellent cooking class, we just kept drinking; finally ending up back at the hotel playing pool and drinking my Beer Laos. Off to Ho Chi Minh tomorrow.
Sidebar: As soon as it starts raining in Hoi An, women mysteriously appear to sell cheap plastic raincoats for 1USD (because, after a while, everything is 1USD). Alex bought one and, after a whole day of wear of tear, this was the result...
Sidebar: As soon as it starts raining in Hoi An, women mysteriously appear to sell cheap plastic raincoats for 1USD (because, after a while, everything is 1USD). Alex bought one and, after a whole day of wear of tear, this was the result...
Photos: Raincoats were harmed during the shooting of these photographs. Alcohol was also involved.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
The beauty of Hoi An in sunshine and in rain
Hoi An is as beautiful on a hazy morning as it is on the hot afternoon we arrived.
But expect to pay for it - Hoi An is expensive.
This morning, I rose early and walked down to the wonderful local food market along the river. This turns into a clothing and textile market in the afternoon but at this time of day its packed with local produce and Hoi An residents buying their food for the day.
Photos: Hoi An's local market
Photos: Hoi An's old town
And then it rained.
Photo: Hoi An's river in the morning
Apart from its quality weaving, record number of tailors and crowds of tourists, Hoi An is known for its stunning UNESCO world heritage listed Old Town. A trading port in the 15th century, Hoi An attracted merchants from all over the world. They stayed and built a city of unique architecture: buildings, bridges and pagodas.
Hoi An's traffic free and heavily-policed old town is worth the visit in and of itself. Add the picturesque river, great shopping, skilled tailors, world-class restaurants and cooking schools (plus a nearby beach) and Hoi An really is an amazing tourist destination.
We arrived yesterday passing through the nearby service city of Datang, which has the international airport, a great deal of business, and a number of huge resorts along lovely beaches (and more under construction). Then we just wandered through the town, did some laundry and had a great lunch at a charity restaurant.
Photos: Hoi An's local market
After a fantastic included breakfast at our very nice four star hotel (I think I'm getting used to the buffet breakfast random wierdness) we decided to hit the beach despite the fact the temperature was plummeting and we were being threatened with rain.
It's a short taxi ride to the beach and it was quite nice - apart from the cold, wind and the odd sprinkle of rain.
In the afteroon, I bought a 90,000 dong ticket to Hoi An's sights so I could go across the Japanese bridge and explore the Old Town. The ticket allows you access to five buildings and helps fund restoration and reconstruction.
Photos: Hoi An's old town
Photos were taken, t-shirts were bought, lunch was had.
And then it rained.
And rained.
So we hit a wine bar for a drink and then had dinner at a disappointingly Western restaurant called Cargo and then hit the sack.
Photo: Hoi An's Japanese bridge
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